| First on the scene during the American Revolution was
the Abaneki Indian from Canada, Sabael Benedict, who settled on the
shore of Indian Lake. He was the first permanent resident of Hamilton
County. Here Sabael raised one son and three daughters, whose
descendents still remain as valued citizens of Indian Lake. Not until the 1840s, some 35 years after the formation
of the Town of Wells, first in the county, did the first stirrings of
settlement come. Lumbermen, with a hunger for the heavy stands of virgin
timber, first opened the central part of Hamilton County. Harvesting
timber generously, acquiring entire townships off the Totten and
Crossfield Purchase, they brought with them sawyers, drivers of wagons,
and lumber pilers who witnessed the beauty of the mountains with their
shimmering lakes and rushing streams. In 1845 they built the first
wooden dam at the foot of Indian Lake, raising the water over five feet,
for the easier cruising of logs. Originally, Indian Lake had been three
smaller lakes joined by a large stream. In the 1860s, the lumbermen
built a second dam that raised the water level 11 feet higher, making a
lake over nine miles long and three-quarters of a mile wide at its
broadest expanse.
With the lumbermen came the first white settlers.
Reuben Rist, Sr. brought his wife, Betsy, and his family who settled
Indian Lake. They had been living in North River, Warren Co, NY. They
settled in a cabin where the present Route 28 crosses the Indian River.
Their team of oxen and two wheeled cart were driven by a helper,
Benjamin Cleveland, whose two sons helped cut the road for the cart, and
later cleared ten acres of fallow, the first such clearing in the area.
During the 1840s and 1850s other settlers moved
westward over the same road that then came from Thirteenth Lake south of
North River to the Big Brook section of Indian Lake – the same road
that Darwin Parker was to use, carrying his young son Alvin, in a
pack-basket . Prominent among them were cousins Gideon G. Porter and
Willard W. Locke. Natives of Bennington, VT. The two had gone to
Burlington to teach. They then opted for a higher education. Porter
became the protégé of a well-know group of physicians. Locke began
studying law. Marriages intervened to make for rough going. Marks
suffered. Kip Wallace, a lumberman from Fort Edward and cousin of Annis
Porter, told them of a beautiful Adirondack location, persuading them to
accompany him there the following summer. They decided to make Indian
Lake their home.
When on September 7, 1850, Truman Brown made his
trudging way through the wilderness from Wells to take a census of the
Indian Lake settlement, he found ten families. By 1860, there were 40
families living in 38 log houses. The population numbered 156 men and 99
women for a total of 255.
Indian Lake was at that time a series of smaller
communities. The community of Sabael was to the south on the lake’s
western side. On the east side of the lake was the Big Brook section. To
the east lay the communities of Irishtown and Parkerville. Westward was
the community of Cedar River. Central to these groups lay an inviting
hilltop, with a major fault--its ground in places was uninvitingly
marshy. Undaunted by the marshy ground on the hilltop, they chose the
site for School District 8 of the Town of Wells at the corner of the
road from Indian River to Cedar River settlements and the road to Wing
& Taylor’s sawmill, location of the present Medical Center.
Construction of the one room log schoolhouse was
delayed by the farm work and struggle for existence of the citizenry.
Minutes of the school on March, 1855 mirror their determination to
"meet on the first day of May next to finish the schoolhouse and
stick to it till it is done." A subscription was drawn for seven
dollars to purchase nails, glass, sash and door hangings
Difficult as it was to establish the schoolhouse, it
determined the site of the Village of Indian Lake.
Now came uneasiness and dissatisfaction that the seat
of town government was to far removed. The final blow came one day when
Sanford Perry’s pig invaded Francis Viele’s garden. The distant
justices of the peace could not settle a sharp dispute, so a new town
was required. Yet one major obstacle existed. Most of the residents of
Indian Lake held their land through the benevolence of the lumbering
landowners. To few were taxpayers.
True to his colors, Gideon Porter took a piece of 200
acres he had purchased on July 7, 1851 from Gurnsey and Abby Kennedy and
Frederick D. Hodgman and sold portions to 15 of his neighbors. His
cousin, Willard Locke, used his legal training to petition successfully
for a new town.
The application was granted. "And it is today all
I hoped to see it", Locke chuckled. Milo E. Washburn was elected
the town’s first supervisor at the initial town meeting at the house
of Gideon Porter on February 1, 1859.
Existing records of Hoxie’s store from November 22,
1866 to 1870 give insight into the meager commercial life of the town.
On Thursday November 22, 1866, Harvey Bonney was paid $22 for fur and 75
cents for two coons. Justin G. Porter was paid $4 for two minks, and S.J.
Porter was paid a dollar for drawing feed and $8 for a trip to 34th
Flow. Other entries show John Mitchell paying 55 cents for dinner and
George Lamphere buying a jackknife for $1.23.
To the east, a store had been started by George
Griffin. It was later operated by the lumberman, John McGinn. Supplies
were brought from Glens Falls by team and lumber wagon. And to the west,
in 1863, Richard B. Jackson built his Artic Hotel, later called the
Cedar River House. A picturesque white-painted structure, it was of
so-called timber frame construction.
About 1870 Milo E. Washburn built the Indian River
Hotel and operated a store. By the mid-1870s, the present village center
at Indian Lake had begun to develop. The blacksmith Beriah Wilbur had
built his hotel on the southeast corner of the roads to Cedar River and
to the lake. He also built a home to the east which stands today. Across
the street, at the corners, Isaac Kenwell had bought land for $50 and
cleared it of trees and built the first village store. Because of the
muddy terrain, he had initiated the custom, later followed by others, of
building the first floor three steps above the street level, with
porches on the entrance and the sides.
It was the opening of Dr. Thomas C. Durant’s
Adirondack Railroad in 1871 from Saratoga to North Creek that gave
Indian Lake its first generous boost. Durant, with his son William West
Durant was primarily interested in the development of Raquette and Blue
Mountain Lakes, but Indian Lake was on the route of the stage coaches to
these resorts and stops were regularly made at ten local hotels. By the
mid 1870s, summer tourists had begun to move into the area.
Milo Washburn’s Indian River Hotel, Richard Jackson’s
Artic Hotel and a new resort, William Wakeley’s Hotel at Cedar River
Falls, built primarily for the tourist trade, began to cater to the
newcomers. British born, Wakeley had sold his North River Hotel and soon
was busy hewing six miles of road into Cedar River Falls, where he built
a dam, a sawmill and finally his new hotel. He named it Cedar Falls
Hotel, but it was generally known as Headquarters. This spot was so
remote that each night during the first season bonfires were required to
keep the wolves from the tethered oxen. The impressive hotel had a
three-story main building, 56 by 26 feet, with two-story wings, each 35
feet long and sported a bar. Before 1878, it was destroyed by fire.
Wakeley’s Hotel was rebuilt on a smaller scale, only to go up in
flames once more in the summer of 1884.
Indian Lake profited a second time when William West
Durant built his lavish Camp Pine Knot and a small community on Long
Point at Raquette Lake. His need for a telegraph office caused Indian
Lake through which the line of the Adirondack, Lake George and Saratoga
Telegraph Company passed, also to receive telegraph service as early as
1880. Harry Linforth, who later went to Blue Mountain Lake in the same
capacity, was the first telegrapher.
Under severe financial odds, the Cedar River Mission,
organized on August 21, 1859, erected its first Methodist church edifice
in 1872 on the parish site of the Indian Lake Fire Department building.
Although most of the parishioners were poor, they gave to the extent of
their means. Some even mortgaged their homes. The parsonage was
completed in 1879.
Improvements in school facilities were seen in 1879,
when a larger red painted schoolhouse across the road was built. On
September 8, 1888, it was voted to move the schoolhouse across the road
and have it shingled. It was the first schoolhouse to occupy the site of
the present modern Indian Lake Central School.
By now, several new stores, with dwellings above had
been opened on the north side of the street at the village center. Among
these were the store of Nelson Ste Marie, a woman’s clothing store of
Mrs. Emma Mead, the store of John Ste Marie, and a general store built
by T.D. Depan, who originally had started as a harness maker at Indian
River. But Indian Lake was to experience new discouragements, hampering
its growth. A disastrous fire on April 24, 1891, razed the four stores.
Gradually the village was rebuilt.
It had not been the first fire. Hotels appeared
particular victims. Beriah Wilbur’s hotel at the corners was destroyed
in 1881. It was replaced by the Ordway House. On Sunday, January 11,
1891 the old Central House yielded to consuming flames. On August 6,
1863, the Ordway House was destroyed. On June 21, 1900, the Indian Lake
Hotel, conducted by J. H. Wilson & Son, was consumed in flames. On
September 15, the general store of T. D. Depan and the drugstore of his
son Charles, were gutted. In the summer of 1901, the hotel that had been
conducted by Edward McSweeney was burned to the ground.
The year 1909 opened with a second major holocaust in
the village center. Gone were the stores of Carlos Hutchins, the
dwelling and saloon of Jack Ste. Marie, and the blacksmith shop of
George Tripp, along with the majority of poles and wires of the North
Creek Telephone Company. The merchants strove to recover.
There was a pause. All seemed poised for 1921 and one
of the most devastating years for Indian Lake Village. Now a sizable
building, the Indian Lake High School was burned to the ground on
Thursday night, January 25, 1921. The tragedy of the school scarcely had
been overcome when fourteen buildings in the heart of Indian Lake
village were destroyed by a fire, which started in Roscoe Tripp’s
Garage on Thursday, November 16. For a time it seemed that the entire
village would be lost. The only recourse was to retard the flames by
dynamiting Nelson Ste. Marie’s store, site of the present Pine’s
hardware. Matt Johnson and Jack Burgey placed the dynamite under the
stairs, lit the fuse and rushed from the building. Later, Mattie Ste.
Marie’s scissors were found stuck in the roof of Bill McCane’s store
next door. Five families were left homeless. In time, the village center
was restored.
A new spurt of life was felt when Isaac
"Ike" Kenwell, builder of the first village store, sold the
hotel he had operated for 15 years on Raquette Lake for $14,.000 and
returned to Indian Lake. A lumbermen at heart, he reentered his favorite
occupation. In 1886, he bought from Isaac Pinney 75 acres of land just
west of the village center and built a sizable house. As an avocation,
he raised prize horses. With organization of the Union Bag and Paper
Company of Hudson Falls, Ike became its northern representative.
Two new churches came to the village in the 1890s.
Their roots ran deep. In the 1870s, several families who had been
members of the second Baptist Church of Fort Ann, Washington County,
moved to Indian Lake. Here they found others of the sect, including the
Gideon Porters. On August 28, 1875, the group organized under the
leadership of the Rev. Joseph B. Webster. Worship meetings were held in
homes and at the old district schoolhouse on Christian Hill just south
of the village. The site chosen for their church edifice was south of
the corners on the west side of Lake Avenue. Formal dedication took
place July 18, 1892. The parsonage was established on May 18, 1910 when
George and Meta McCane sold them their nearby home and half-acre lot.
Before 1880, transient Catholic priests representing
the Diocese of Ogdensburgh were visiting the town. The first organized
church was incorporated as St. Gabriel’s Church of Indian Lake on
November 25, 1881. Masses were said, somewhat irregularly, at the home
of John McGinn, the Canadian Irishman, who had settled at Indian Lake as
northern agent for the lumbermen, who later became Finch, Pruyn &
Company.
Stronger organization was required. St Mary’s Church
of Indian Lake was incorporated on August 24, 1895. The church edifice
was built in 1895 on lower Main Street and enlarged in 1928. Rev. F.C.
Hatch of Olmsteadville held regular services at the church from the
close of World War I until 1958. At that point Rev. James M. Flattery
was assigned as first resident pastor. The congregation had outgrown the
older wooden church. Land westward in the village was purchased from
Charles H. Wilson and Mrs. Ethel Tripp and an attractive masonry church
was built. The first mass was celebrated there on Sunday, May 31, 1959.
In September 1959, the seven room rectory was built next door.
In fall, 1948, a fourth church became part of the
community under the leadership of the Rev. Fred Howenstein. The
foundation for the Independent Baptist Church was built in a beautiful
location along the Sabael Road on Christian Hill. The nearby parsonage
was completed in 1975.
Two blacksmith shops in town came to prominence.
George H. Tripp, who came from Stony Creek in 1880, was regarded as an
artist in blacksmithing. He occupied a shop on the south side of the
street at the present site of Marty’s Hotel, later moving it across
the street. A community leader, George held nearly every office in the
town and from 1892 to 1896 served as Sheriff of Hamilton County. His
shop was destroyed in the village fire of 1909. It was rebuilt as a
garage since automobiles were coming to town. (Nelson Ste. Marie bought
the first automobile owned at Indian Lake on Monday, May 17, 1909.)
It was again rebuilt after the fire of 1921, and
ownership changed hands between Roscoe Tripp and Edward Brooks, and Carl
Montgomery and Howard Armstrong. Montgomery purchased the garage in
1959, selling it to McConkey in 1971. It is now the village’s
Chevrolet garage operated by Mike and Helen Townsend.
Down the street to the east was the blacksmith shop of
George Morehouse, who came from Johnsburgh. Morehouse listed himself as
a locksmith. In 1905 he served as a mechanic. Morehouse served the town
as supervisor from 1905 to 1910, and the shop was taken over by Allie
Hunt, formerly of Raquette Lake. It was torn down and a hardware store
erected in its place. Roy Savage, a later owner, moved the hardware
business to the location of the present hardware store built by Nelson
Ste Marie, and presently operated by the Pine family. Gilbert Spring
took over the Savage store and had it enlarged. Spring died August 8,
1962, and Spring’s General Store has since been operated by his widow,
Ruth Spring.
All of the larger village hotels have succumbed to
fire. The last of three hotels at the corners, the Commercial Hotel,
burned in January 1917. Yet two smaller inns remained.
John Ste. Marie early had operated his tavern next to
the Tripp Garage. It was destroyed in the first village fire in 1891 and
was rebuilt. In May 1914, Ste. Marie sold the business to Frank Pelon
and moved to Gloversville. Frank added the hotel. Henry Farrell took
over the business on June 1, 1927. Later came Franklin and Marie Savarie
Farrell, who acquired the bar from the old Nassau Inn of Princeton NJ
complete with inscribed pewter mugs of many former under graduates of
the Ivy League college. The Farrells ultimately sold the property to
Richard and Madeline Scully. The Scullys had converted the inn since to
a large restaurant, taproom, and liquor store.
William Carroll constructed Marty’s Hotel at the
turn of the century. The west side was used for the family’s home. The
east side was a meat market until the 1920s,when the Carrolls bought the
Frank Washburn place at Sabael and operated the Lake View House. The
establishment was occupied and operated as a small hotel for many years
by several parties, including the Francis Farrells. It was then acquired
by Mr. and Mrs. Martin Harr, Jr. and operated by Mrs. Harr. Martin Harr,
Jr became the village postmaster. The present proprietor is their son,
Walter Harr.
The Indian River Company built the modern masonry dam
to maintain the level of the Hudson River in 1898 under an agreement
with the Forest Preserve Board. The present large Indian Lake was now
complete. Summer visitors began to increase. Summer hotels and boarding
houses sprang up on the road along the west side of the lake. Early in
the decade, Hosea G. Locke built his well-remembered Locke House. Two
miles farther down the road, George Griffin opened the Griffin Indian
Lake House. Later, James and Ellen Porter McCormick built the Indian
Lake House at Sabael. Olive Carroll ran the Lake View House.
The Town of Indian Lake was significantly enlarged in
1915. Since its beginning, travel in and out of the village had been
difficult over the roughest of roads toward North Creek, Warrensburg and
Glens Falls. The original track had detoured by way of Thirteenth Lake,
south of North River, to enter Indian Lake’s Big Brook section. Later,
the road took a more direct course toward North River and North Creek.
Despite its use by stages, it remained in abominable condition.
The Indian Lakers were desperate for a suitable road
to get them out of the wilderness. It would have to pass through Essex
County’s Town of Minerva. But the people of Minerva were not going to
build such a road to accommodate the residents of a neighboring town.
Only a few of Minerva’s residents lived along the old road; its town
center was to the north. In complete frustration, the Indian Lake town
fathers had considered building a road by private subscription far to
the westward in their county, to the railroad station at Raquette Lake.
Then, a new concept developed. Why not try swapping
land with Essex County for a strip of land between Indian Lake Village
and North Creek on which they could build a road of their own? The state
of New York agreed. In 1915, the land was exchanged. The Town of Minerva
was delighted to get rid of this expensive obstacle. The Town of Indian
Lake was overjoyed to receive the land, laughing that they had gained
their objective in exchange for pure wilderness land in the mountains to
the North. Both were satisfied. To be sure, it put a large jog in the
formerly straight boundaries of the counties, but this was little
compared to the bumps that would be removed from the odious highway.
Significantly, the modern highway to Lake Pleasant was
completed in 1955. Held up for years because it was to cross state land,
the paved road made a direct route for the three towns at the northern
part of the county to their county seat at Lake Pleasant. Perhaps more
important, it caused the village of Indian Lake to become a
communications center and the most centrally located village in Hamilton
County. It also was instrumental in bringing the Hamilton County
residence of the New York State Department of Transportation in 1969 and
the Indian Lake Maintenance Center of the New York State Department of
Environmental Conservation in 1974.
The newly formed Fire Company was soon to undergo a
severe test. The shrill fire siren brought the Indian Lake firemen from
their beds on September 14, 1943. The old wooden Town Hall, built in
1892, was a total loss. The town rented William McCane’s store for its
offices until the modern Town Hall was built on Pelon Road below the
Health Center in 1982.
Community improvements continued at a rapid pace, with
telephones in 1907 and electrical service in 1932. The dam forming Lake
Byron, later Adirondack Lake, was completed in 1932. The dam forming
Lake Abanakee was built in 1951, providing the community with its third
large man-made lake..
Winter recreational opportunities developed with the
construction of a community ski slope and lift in 1957. In 1968, a new
public beach on Lake Abanakee replaced the original one on Cedar River.
A bathhouse was constructed in 1969.
Wakely Lodge, built in 1918 burned in 1958 and was
replaced by the present lodge, farther off the Cedar River Road. It is
owned by Richard and Ethel Wakely Fletcher. Lake Fletcher was made next
to the lodge in 1967 and was stocked with native speckled trout and
Canadian red trout. A nine-hole golf course was opened in August 1972.
Today, Indian Lake is a combination of the old and the
new, with modern structures predominating. Seeking older landmarks, one
first must look to the oldest remaining commercial building---Ste Marie’s
Store, formerly run by Pete Farrell, is now home to Hutchin’s Floor
Covering. The store has been in continuous operation on the southwest
village corner for over 125 years. The Town Library authorized December
4, 1967 in the Allen Brook’s house, one of the village’s oldest
houses is now the Indian Lake Museum. The Town Library is a new building
on Pelon Road with some major construction being done in 2001. The house
built by Beriah Wilbur, its west wing used as a post office after the
burning of his hotel, has been torn down to make way for a Stewart’s
Shop.. Next to the Firehall was the house presumably built in the 1880s
by Walton Hutchins, and later occupied by Mr. and Mrs. Grover Wilson. It
was sold to the Richard Scullys in 1971. This house, also torn down, is
a part of the Stewart’s Shop location. There are other residents with
distant past.
After the loss by fire of the Commercial Hotel at the
corners in January 1917, Edward Brooks built his house there in 1924. It
was used as a variety store by Gretchen Fish, a business continued by
Beecher and Eleanor King. It then became an arcade, run by Peter Locke,
primarily for the youngsters of the town. It is now the Pick-it Patch a
variety store and the Ice Cream Garden.
The original outlying communities, for which the
present village became the center, are now, thanks to automobiles, a
part of Indian Lake community---a move perhaps made more meaningful when
the district schools were closed and the modern Indian Lake School began
to serve the entire area.
Present day Indian Lake is the recreational center of
Hamilton County. The visitor can take a poignant walk through Little
Canada, where once lived the French Canadian squatters whose land
ultimately was taken over by the state. He can climb rockfaced Snowy
Mountain or hike to Little Moose Lake, where Sabael’s grandson Elijah
Camp, once kept a hunting and fishing lodge. He can scale Chimney
Mountain and examine its ice caves, encrusted in every season. He can
search for the family graveyard in Parkerville, enshrouded by the
encroaching forest, its location unknown even by contemporary family
members. Or if he chooses more difficult tasks, he can search for the
lost lead mine, where Sabael used to sneak silently into the forest to
get metal for making his bullets. The location was Sabael’s greatest
secret but its discovery and subsequent loss once more has been claimed
by at least two groups of searchers.
With all its obstacles and discouragements, Indian
Lake has grown into Hamilton County’s largest town, with a total
permanent population of 1410. Conveniences and quaintness are joined in
the village where Ste. Marie’s Store still serves its customers, where
a supermarket, the post office, snack bars, summer restaurants, the
hardware store, (with a little bit of everything), bank, lumberyard,
medical center, library museum and a town hall are close at hand. The
quaintness holds its own attractions. The convenience allows more time
for recreation on lakes and trails. There is hunting and fishing. It is
a center for snowmobilers and cross-country skiers in season. White
water rafting is a growing recreation in the spring and the summer.
Indian Lake essentially is a capsule history of the
hard work and hardships that always have accompanied mountain living. It
is deep in the Adirondack heartland.
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